In our country, buttons can be traced back to as early as 1800 years ago, the initial buttons were mainly stone buttons, wooden buttons, shell buttons, and later developed into buttons made of fabric with buttons and coiled knot buttons. Coil knot buttons have played a great role in the history of our clothing development, from the initial functional clothing fasteners to clothing decoration transition. Chinese knotted button is our traditional clothing button form, is sewn into thin strips with various fabrics, knotted into a variety of shapes of fancy buttons. Chinese plate buckle beautiful shape, exquisite workmanship, like a thousand kinds of handicrafts, can be said to be China’s clothing garden in a unique oddball. Chinese plate deduction has the same use value as other buttons, more often used to decorate and beautify clothing, especially applied to national clothing, more reflect the beauty of its clothing.
Who invented the button?
Buttons are human beings often accompanied by the life of clothing items. Its use has a history of more than six thousand years. As early as four thousand years ago, Iran’s ancestors, the Persians, have been made of stone buttons used. And China’s Zhou Dynasty has begun to use the upper garment under the garment system, both men and women are wearing the upper garment under the garment of the two cut clothes. There were officials in the court who were in charge of making dresses, and when the civil and military officials did the ceremony, they had to wear dresses. At that time, the use of clothing was relatively standardized and the clothing system was quite complete. The word “New” appears in the books “Zhou Li” and “Li Ji”, which reflect the etiquette of the Zhou dynasty, and “New” is a knot that intersects with each other, or a button knot. According to my collection of Western Zhou bronze yinwen buttons and our archaeological findings, in the Spring and Autumn and Warring States period, there is the use of buttons. In the Warring States relics excavated in Shizhai Mountain, Jinning, Yunnan, there have been round, oval, animal head-shaped and irregularly shaped buttons made of turquoise in orchid, apple green and light gray. Each one has one or two small holes. Some are engraved with floral patterns, chic and colorful, and have a wonderful waxy luster. Collection of buttons collection, still with small stones, shells, animal horns and walnuts, coconut shells made of simple buttons. This shows that our Chinese people had already used buttons during the Zhou Dynasty and Spring and Autumn Warring States Period. The drawings shown on the haniwa wheel made of human figures in the middle of the ancient burial period excavated in Japan show that the male garments were composed of a coat and a skirt, with the coat being a narrow-sleeved blouse and the front counterparts connected by buttons. It can be seen that the Japanese used buttons before the ancient tomb period. In the sixteenth century, the Chinese spread the buttons to Europe, when only men used, less female users, most people only used for clothing. Some dignitaries in order to show their wealth, with precious gold and silver, pearls, precious stones, diamonds, rhinoceros horn, antelope horn, ivory precious materials, refined into buttons to use. In France, there is a record that King Louis XIV used 13,000 precious buttons to make a royal robe. In my collection, there are precious buttons made of precious cow horn, antelope horn, ivory, gold and silver precious materials.
Why are the buttons on the right for men and on the left for women?
Because modern dress is based on western dress. Westerners generally wear shirts and suits, buttons on the right in line with the posture of people buttoning habits.
A long time ago, in the West, ladies generally do not button their own buttons, generally by the maid serving the lady dress button, in order to let the maid button button when convenient, so the buttons of women’s clothing and men are the opposite.
The meaning of the second button
This is a legend from Japan, the second button is the best gift for couples, the second button, above the heart, is given to the person whose heart is tied. The second button, above the heart, is for the person whose heart is tied to. That is, for the person who likes it most. Because the second button is on the heart position, so the second button is relatively speaking on behalf of the heart!
Origin of buttons
In the history of China’s clothing development, the appearance of buttons is very early. Tang Dynasty when the button loop is widely used, generally use three pairs, is later clothing use row of buttons of the goblet. After the Tang Dynasty, the shape of the button more, the Ming Dynasty women mainly use metal buttons, after the Qing Dynasty buttons become the most important knot on the clothes.
Button classification development
Buttons are used on the clothes on the two sides of the lapels connected to the knotted object. The initial role is used to connect the lapels of clothes, has gradually developed to maintain its original function in addition to more artistic and decorative, that is, personalized. A good button it can make your clothing more perfect, play a “finishing touch” role, play a certain role in aesthetics. Especially women’s clothing appeared a lot of flowery decorative buttons. In detail: the connection of the clothes lapel for the button, that is, we now often say that the button another such as windbreaker with the connection of the buckle for the non-connection of the lapel is a buckle, but we are accustomed to the two together as one, collectively referred to as buttons.
a, according to the size of the button (i.e., diameter size points)
That we often say 14 #, 16 #, 18 #, 20 #, 60 # and so on! Its conversion formula is: diameter = model * 0.635 (mm). If we have a button in hand, but do not know the size of its model, we can use calipers to measure its diameter (mm) and then divide by 0.635 can.
b, the size of the button there is another way to express that L
Conversion relationship is as follows.
Button size size.
1L=0.635MM 1MM=1/25 inch INCH) expressed in units: L, No. (LIGNES)
14L=8.89 MM =11/32″
18L=11.43 MM =15/32″
20L=12.7 MM =1/2″
60L=38.1 MM =1-1/2″
c. Number of buttons and units.
Hit OZEN D.=12PCS
LAW GROSS G.=144PCS
Da Luo GREAT GROSS GG.=1728PCS=12G
d, according to the material points.
Natural category: real shell buckle, coconut buckle, wood buckle, bone buckle (common horn buckle), bamboo buckle, fruit buckle, fruit shell buckle, etc.
Chemical: organic buckle, resin buckle, ceramic (zirconia) buckle, plastic buckle, combination buckle, urea buckle, spray paint buckle, electroplated buckle, mother and child buckle, cloth buckle, Chin buckle, and so on
Other: Chinese knot, four buckles, metal buckle, horn buckle, imitation leather buckle, I buckle, cowboy buckle, magnet buckle, laser letter buckle, vibration buckle, etc.
e, in the resin buckle, from the blank material can be divided into.
Bar material buckle: pearl buckle, pattern buckle, ordinary bar, etc.
Plate material buckle: pearl corrugated plate (including fake corrugated, real corrugated), pearl plate, striped plate, monochrome plate
Manhattan: colorful buckle, monochrome buckle
f, from the eyelet points.
Dark-eyed buckle: generally on the back of the button, through the button radial perforation.
Bright-eyed buckle: directly through the front and back of the button, generally four-eyed buckle and two-eyed buckle
Tall buckle: in the back of the button, but in the back of the button there is a shank, the shank has a hole.
g, from the an buckle method points.
hand-sewn buckle: directly sewn to the clothing with thread.
four buckles: the use of mold hit buckle on the clothing.
g, from the luminosity points.
With light buckle, semi-light buckle, no light buckle, matte buckle
The manufacturing process of buttons
unsaturated resin + curing agent| + accelerator + color paste mix —” bar workshop processing —” bar blank —” selection of blank workshop —” button workshop plate material workshop processing —” slab special button workshop —” polishing workshop finished workshop
A. Production process of bar stock.
B. The production process of plate material.
C. The role and criteria of selecting blanks.
To exclude unqualified products before the next process
①Blank thickness according to the company’s requirements for the species: bar ± 0.2mm for the genuine product, plate ± 0.1mm for the genuine product (qualified products) more than the scrap.
②Color, pattern variation, does not meet the requirements of the species for scrap.
③ model do poor, rotten edge, heart, steam bubble are scrap.
D. Production requirements and standards of buckle-making workshop
①Shape and sample consistent, including the size of the fine edge buckle edge, face back curvature, etc.
② inspection standards, the following phenomena are scrap.
a, eyelets: eyelets break, cracking, eyelets are not in the center of the button, four hole position is not square, eyelets and buckle surface is not perpendicular, broken needle less hole or needle did not play through, the front is large and then small, dark eye buckle, hole edge hit fried, no hole, etc..
b, buckle edge: thick on one side, thin on the other; button overall thickness is correct, while the side is thick on one side and thin on the other.
c, the overall thickness and sample buckle comparison, the overall thickening or thinning of the button and machine turning four consecutive buttons have thick and thin.
E. Acceptance criteria for finished products
a) Finished product standards
1, color, pattern, type and sample or the same product requirements.
2、 Pinhole square, symmetrical, stitch distance and pinhole size meet the standard.
3、 Brightness meets the requirements.
4、 The back of the surface is free of frying, broken, uneven side thickness.
5、 According to the style, color, pattern, model classification packaging.
Button production style
With the development of the times, buttons from the material to the shape and production process are more and more colorful and beautiful, information shows that
The buttons on the clothes of the Qing Dynasty, mostly copper small round buckles, large ones such as hazelnuts, small ones such as beans, folk more with plain surface, that is, the surface is smooth without lines, the court or nobility are more with large copper buckles or copper gilt buckles, gold buckles, silver buckles. Buttons are often engraved or openwork carved with a variety of ornaments, such as dragon patterns, flying phoenix patterns and general patterns. Button nailing method also varies, there is a single row, double row or three rows of New.
After the Qianlong period, the button production process is becoming more and more sophisticated, clothing with buttons also become more sophisticated, with a variety of materials made of a variety of buttons have been marketed, light and strange, fighting for the strange, there are all kinds. For example, there are gold-plated buckle, silver-plated buckle, threaded buckle, burned blue buckle, material buckle and so on. In addition, there are precious white jade Buddha hand buckle, wrapped gold pearl buckle, three set jadeite buckle, inlaid gold agate buckle and coral buckle, beeswax buckle, amber buckle, etc. There are even diamond buttons. Buttons are also richly decorated with a variety of patterns, such as folding flowers, birds and beasts, fortune, longevity and happiness, and even 12 zodiac signs, etc., can be said to have everything, a variety of.
Buttons distinguish materials
Button materials are broadly divided into plastic (resin, plastic), metal buttons (copper, iron, alloy), natural (shell, wood, coconut shell, bamboo. Various materials to make buttons, the process is different. Some buttons look the same, even industry people with their eyes may not be able to distinguish, so destroy, scrape the coat to be able to distinguish.
Buttons distinguish between plastic buttons and resin buttons, plastic buttons and resin buttons, plastic (including a variety of plastic) buttons are generally die-cast, so there will be a line on the side of the button, this fit line, some factories may remove the line in the subsequent processing, but its weight will be lighter than resin (of course, some special plastic will be heavy). Resin buttons are mechanically carved and then polished, so the surface is not full mold line, very smooth. But it is fragile, the surface is easy to scratch, put in boiling water will become soft.
How to distinguish between copper buttons and iron buttons? : copper and iron material buttons, this with a magnet to try to know, there is a hard object to scrape the surface plating layer, copper button face in the brass color (gold). Iron buckle is black, which is the color of the raw material.
How to determine to determine the alloy button? : alloy button is heavier, is die-cast, all mold lines, generally will do grinding and polishing treatment, may not see, but it is heavy weight, is solid.
Button manufacturing process
Hardware button design drawing
Hardware button design drawing
Hardware button: open size mold (existing mold repair mold) —” open button face mold (shape) / flower mold (LOGO / pattern, etc.) —” test mold, out of small samples —” playing embryo — Oil washing/polishing — Plating — Other process treatment (oiling/radium/screen printing, etc.) -Inspection/Testing–Packaging and Delivery
Alloy Buttons: Drawing design drawings — “Carving copper male —” EDM processing — “Big goods mold — Test mold–” embryo–” polishing/hand polishing–” electroplating–” other process treatment (oiling/ Laser/Silkscreen printing, etc.)—“Inspection/Testing–“Packing and Delivery
Inspection requirements and standards.
1、Contrast with the sample or confirm the small sample. See whether the color and model match the sample.
2, the surface of the button should not have cracks, gaps, unevenness and obvious scratches.
3, the face and back without car crack, vapor bubble; no rotten edge, uneven thickness.
4, the pattern should be no obvious deformation, no white eyes, white circles and other phenomena.
5, the buttonhole should be smooth and clean; needle eye without non-penetration and rupture, to be symmetrical and no large eyes. In the case of concealed eye buckle, concealed eye slot should be smooth, no obvious burst.
6, after plating or other processes, the effect should be uniform, if it is some special effects can not be consistent, can be packaged separately.
7, the same batch of buttons color difference should be no less than GB250 four standards, compared with incoming samples, should be no less than GB250 three standards.
8, packaging inspection, after the appearance inspection / customer requirements performance test all qualified, and then sub-assembly. In the packaging should be put into the certificate of conformity or other labels. The number of packaging should be consistent with the provisions, and the actual number of each bag should be consistent with the number of provisions, found that due to the thickness of different or other reasons exceed the tolerance is to test the whole number.
9、Button/carpet button/five-prong button should be tried before shipment to test the performance and availability of the button, and provide mold and trial samples to customers.
Buttons can not only connect clothes and make it tight insulation, but also can make people instrument neatly. Chic buttons will also play an embellishing role to the clothes. Therefore, it is an indispensable part of the clothing structure. That is, in addition to the practical function, but also to play a role in the styling of clothing.
The earliest buttons
Archaeological experts have recently discovered the earliest button found in China so far in Lintao County, and it has been verified that this button belongs to the Qijia culture type, which has a history of more than 4,600 years ago, and the button is 2.5 cm in diameter, 1 cm thick in the middle and thin around the edges, with two small holes similar to buttonholes. The whole button is clay orange-yellow pottery, the color is earthy yellow, the surface of pottery is relatively rough.
This pottery button unearthed in Lintao, the only one in the country, the discovery, confirming that more than 4,000 years ago the ancestors have begun to sew clothes to cover shame and cold. It is extremely valuable for the study of the life of the ancestors.